Monday, January 19, 2015

Insulating a cold bedroom over the Garage - "Heated space"

We recently moved our bedroom to a larger one at the front of the house. This was a concern because it was notoriously the coldest room in the house. Its always several degrees colder.
This is a common problem in Canada and there are many service companies do it yourself solutions.
I of course hate paying anyone to do something I can do myself.
So with unused vacation time I had to take before the end of the year I was determined to solve it as inexpensively as I could.
Inspection:
To start I cut some holes in the garage ceiling drywall large enough to stand on a ladder and look around with a bright light.
Then I cut out sections of drywall between the studs.
I was happy to see there was already considerable thickness of pink insulation, however what I saw next changed my whole plan.
I knew I would see the two heating ducts and figured I would need to wrap them with insulation, however there was a third duct just blowing into the space. 
Seeing this I wondered why the space was so cold.


Change of plan
I was thinking of purchasing a spray foam kit and apply it directly to the underside of the floor. Now I realized if I did that I would loose the benefit of the heated space.
So I needed to find the cold areas and improve the insulation.

I could see the insulation on the side walls was not as thick and I could see the builder has not put vapor barrier over them .
So, this was enough to send me off to my nearby Home Depot to buy insulation. I selected Roxul R22 16 inch wide.
Three bats fit nicely in the back of a 2003 Honda CRV. They also come bundled in 3's.  I later went back and go one more.
Also notable, the plastic used to tie 3 bundles together is heavy enough to use for extra vapor barrier.
I slid down the short stubs of insulation and added more insulation above in the outside walls.
Then I added vapor barrier plastic. 
Then I placed more new insulation on the warm side.
Back in the garage ...Outside of the front of the house has a steel I-beam.

After cutting some more access holes I got a better look.
From inside I could see the I beam exposed in the corners, so clearly not enough insulation inside,









I ran a new full thickness wall of new batting along the outside walls.
In the most interior wall I saw plumbing so I had to ensure i didn't cover it. it had to stay on the warm side of the insulation.

As a final layer of warmth I split several bats of insulation to half thickness and layered over top of the  original pink insulation.
The end result is that I feel much of the house is warmer and I expect a better heating bill this year.

2 comments:

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  2. Insulation is effective up to 3 inches thick, any thicker layer/s (over the 1st 3 inches) serves no useful purpose whatever, other than warming the hearts and minds of the glassfibre manufacturers. All heat saving figures are mythical,divide them by 3 to get a more accurate heat saving figure is best. Fibreglass does not retain heat, air or water, and the so called test figures are based on a square box with a square metre of insulation on top acting as the alleged bedroom ceiling, and of course you then have the 25%-30% heat-saving claims. In practice insulation is laid is long strips and each gap, strip, tear, knife cut is an hole soon found by air, moisture or heat, and used to exit the building. And guess what - these holes are easily found by *cold air* coming into the building through gaps in the roof tiles, vent gaps in the eaves and soffits. All old houses need to be demolished and rebuilt using House Wrap liberally, only then will we ever see any big improvements in heat retention.

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